La Pinsonniere is a mini grand hotel set on a steep hill above the St. Lawrence River in the rural area of Charlevoix, one and a half hours by car from Quebec City. It is best described as "rustic luxe".
Hotel prices range from $285 for a room in low season (November to April) facing the village to $700 for a two bedroom unit with a river view in high season.
Overview of La Pinsonniere Hotel
In l978, Montreal businessman Jean Authier and his wife Janine bought a large home and converted it into a cozy eleven bedroom inn. “I had traveled the world, I knew what I wanted as a client”, says Jean, who co-owns the property with his daughter, Nathalie. The inn was ideally located in the middle of Charlevoix, which has long attracted visitors to its mix of nature and culture.
In 2006, the hotel went through a multi-million dollar renovation, and the 26 rooms were reduced to l8. No two are exactly alike. Highly recommended is room 202, done in minimalist decor.
Room 202 is large enough for two sectional sofas far from the bed, and a dressing room big enough to hide the messy contents of several large suitcases. Floor to ceiling windows face the majestic river, and during the summer, the long balcony is almost like another room.Not all rooms face the river, however, and the experience would be quite different without the view.
The bathrooms, all redone, are worth noting. The makeup mirror above the sink has a tall chair in front of it. The shower turns into a steam bath at the press of a button, and two wooden seats flip out from the wall. The bath has, in addition to the usual jacuzzi jets, chromotherapy, various lights that are supposed to enhance your mood.
Relais&Chateau Group Affiliation
The Authiers kept adding new wings and rooms and upping the luxury quotient. In l985, they were asked to join the prestigious France-based Relais&Chateau group, with its exacting standards and impeccable reputation. “We don’t compete against the neighborhood, but against Europe’, Authier points out, adding that 70% of his clients find the hotel through the Relais& Chateau book.
Today, the white house on the hill features several terraces, high above the St. Lawrence river, some two hundred steps down. During the summer months guests lounge and lunch outside, surrounded by roses and peonies and iris. There are tennis courts and a rather primitive path that leads down to the river’s edge.
Local Attractions
Many guests take advantage of the local attractions, and visit some of the most breathtaking national parks in Quebec, as well as a major gourmet route organized to include visits to cheese factories and organic farms.
There is also whale watching in Tadussac, north of the hotel. The concierge, Viateur Tremblay, can organize kayaking from a nearby outfitter.
In the winter, guests return from skiing, snowshoeing and dogsledding and settle in around the stone fireplace in the library. There is a spa and a large indoor pool that leads directly to the outdoors. Guests are welcome to go from the sauna to the snow.
Dining at La Pinsonniere Hotel
Relais&Chateau properties are noted for their restaurants, and LaPinsonniere doesn’t disappoint. The quality is high, and chef Jean-Francois Belair is skillful and inventive.
The cuisine is French, with fanciful takes on Quebec traditions. Main courses begin at $44 a la carte. A three course dinner is $70, and includes a starter, main course, desserts and coffee or tea.A seven course dinner is $125.
You have the choice of taking your meals at the hotel or sampling some of the local restaurants.
The wine cellar, which has won awards from The Wine Spectator, has 12,000 bottles, 40% of them Bordeaux.